Monday, November 27, 2017

Dún Lúiche



I came across photos of Dunlewey on a fantastic Irish Folklore Twitter account and thought it looked so beautiful I would have to go. Sitting on the shore of Dunlewey Lough, in the Poisoned Glen in the shadow of Mount Errigal, it is one of those sites one would daydream about seeing on a journey to Donegal. A ruined church sits at the foot of the mountain and sheep graze in the adjoining field, the lough lies below and the only sound that can be heard is the wind which probably blows cold even in an Irish Summer.











The Church of the Sacred Heart sits across the valley and masses are still said there today. The ruined Church was Protestant; Sacred Heart, Catholic, and there are graves of married couples separated by Religion which face each other from either Church. I'm of a divided mind whether this is incredibly sad or incredibly romantic.








We stopped at Back Strand Beach in Falcarragh on the drive home and again, the views provide justification that Ireland be considered one of the most beautiful countries in the world.






Friday, November 24, 2017

Derry


Although Derry is in the North of Ireland and across the soft border from my family in Donegal, it is the nearest city to their small town and one of my favorite to visit. Called the Walled City, in reference to the 17th century walls which stand approximately one mile of the city in circumference, Derry has an incredible history dating to the 6th century when Saint Columb founded a monastery on the land.

Although signs of the Troubles between Irish Nationalists and British Loyalists are still apparent today and the city neighborhoods remain overwhelmingly partitioned on those lines, it is certainly safe unless one is specifically looking for agitated conflict.













A walk around the city walls offers views of the City from the Bogside to the Bridge and a perspective of the size of the original city layout. Derry is one of the few cities in Europe with fortifications that were never breached, despite being under siege numerous times.















The "Peace Bridge" separates Nationalist and Loyalist neighborhoods although the Foyleside shopping Center and Walled area are visited by both without much incident.






A view of the Bogside, and Derry's Irish Nationalist community, which is almost entirely Roman Catholic. Some of my family worked in Derry in the 1980s and 90s and were certainly affected by the Troubles as they are Catholics crossing what was then a hard border from the Republic. And the memory is not gone as building paintings commemorate the lives lost in decades of conflict.








A view of a Loyalist Neighborhood, visible from the City Walls. The signs of conflict are visible but unrest is well contained and isolated. As long as one doesn't walk into the Bogside with a Glasgow Rangers jersey and waving a Union Jack or something similarly instigating in nature, a journey into either neighborhood would not result in incident.


Derry is picturesque and its Gothic architecture is fitting for the cold and gray weather so typical of Ulster. I love walking the city walls and taking in the views with a camera. The city is very clean, the people have always been lovely, the shops offer anything familiar to any city of its size, and the history and culture provide much to do and see. I'd definitely recommend a visit.