Piazza del Duomo
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| Piazza del Duomo, with Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and the Cathedral |
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| Piazza del Duomo |
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| Vittorio Emanuele II |
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| Milan's Royal Palace from the Piazza del Duomo |
Exterior
With a surface area of 109,641 square feet, Milan's Duomo is the third largest Christian cathedral in Europe (following the Vatican's St. Peter's and the Catedral de Sevilla), and the fifth largest in the world and is purported to be able to accommodate a crowd of 40,000 people. And with it's 3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles and 700 figures, it's façade boasts the greatest number of sculptures of any structure globally. The construction of the Duomo officially started in 1386, and in terracotta brick. However, architects proposed marble would make the Cathedral even more magnificent and following a genius plan, canals were dug to transport marble from the Candoglian quarries from Lake Maggiore in the Ossola valley to the construction site in the center of Milan.
Although Lombardy's own Simone da Orsenigo is the architect most famously associated with the Duomo, more than 70 others from across Europe were invited to work on the cathedral, and it's spectacular design shows the influence of the French Rayonnant and German gothics in addition to that of the Italian masters.
The Duomo was consecrated and dedicated to the Nativity of Mary in 1418, but massive construction efforts continued for until the early 17th century and additional work was completed as recently at 1965.
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| The Duomo is dedicated to the Nativity of Saint Mary (Santa Maria Nascenti) |
Rooftop Terraces
Travel Tip: Although more expensive than stair access, tickets for the elevator will have visitors standing in very long lines (up to two hours). If you're capable, get the specific tickets which allow access to the stairs and there is no wait. At some 250 steps the climb is not easy though, so I recommend comfortable shoes along with the modest dress required to enter the cathedral.
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| Breathtaking view of Milan from the Duomo rooftop |
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| la Madonnina sits atop the highest of the Duomo's 135 spires |
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| View of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II from above |
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| View of Piazza del Duomo from above |
The Interior, Chapels, and Crypt
The Duomo has four aisles, two aligning the nave on each side, and vaulted domed ceilings suspended by 40 columns- each reaching 80 feet (24.5 meters) in height. The interior is shaped like a Latin Cross, with a transept and polygonal apse and choir containing three separate altars created by Pellegrino di Tibaldo de Pellegrini. Intricately decorated chapels align interior walls.
Sacred relics within the cathedral include a nail said to be that from the crucifixion of Jesus Christ, which is housed in a tabernacle in the dome directly above the apse. The Vatican recognizes the Sacro Chiodo (Holy Nail) as one of the many relics Saint Helena, mother of Roman Emperor Constantine, retrieved on her archaeological pilgrimage to the Holy Land 328 AD. Initially the Sacro Chiodo was fashioned for use in a bridle for Constantine, and the relic was passed to subsequent Roman Emperors until Theodosius gave it to Saint Ambrose, Archbishop of Milan, before his death in 395 AD. Each year since 1389, the nail is brought down from the tabernacle and placed on display for three days of public viewing in mid-September (known as the Triduo del Sacro Chiodo).
The Cathedral's crypt houses the sarcophagus and relics of Saint Carlo Borromeo, sixteenth century Archbishop of Milan, one of the greatest figures of the Roman Catholic Counter-Reformation. The Duomo also houses the sarcophagi of Archbishops Ariberto da Intimiano (10th c.), Ottone Visconti (13th c.), and Giovanni Visconti (14th c.), and notable patron Marco Carelli, a Milanese merchant who donated 35,000 ducati in 1390, an extremely generous amout which made much of the Duomo's construction possible.
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| The dome above the apse holds the nail reported to be of the True Cross |
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| the Duomo's many side chapels offer a quiet spot for prayer and reflection |
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| The Duomo's central altar |
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| The many stained glass windows of the cathedral date from 14th c. to the most recent addition in 1988 |
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| Gian Giacomo Medici, bronze sculpture by Leone Leoni |
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| Funeral monument of Gian Giacomo Medici (b.1498, d.1555) |
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| Entryway to the crypt of Saint Carlo Borromeo |
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| Sarcophagus and relics of Saint Carlo Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan b.1564-1584 |
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| "Saint Bartholomew Flayed," Marco d'Agrate (1562). Below the statue reads the inscription: “Non me praxiteles sed Marco Finxit Agrat." "(I was not sculpted by Praxiteles, but by Marco d’Agrate." |
The Paleo-Christian Baptistery and Archaeological Site
The descending staircase leading 12 feet below the main floor to the Duomo's archaeological site is just inside the main entrance and can be accessed with an all-inclusive Cathedral ticket. Excavation in 1889 led to the discovery of the Baptistery of San Giovanni, built between 378 A.D. and 397 A.D. and said to be the first octagonal baptistery in Europe, and the site of Saint Augustine's receipt of the sacrament at the hands of Saint Ambrose. The baptismal pool's octagonal shape may be influenced by sacred Roman symbolism as reflected in many Roman mausoleums combined with the paleo-Christian belief that the number 8 signifies the "eighth day" (after 6 days of creation and one of rest), meaning eternity.
Exploring the site also provides a view of the apse of Saint Tecla, the basilica dating to 335AD which resided where the Duomo does today. In 836 AD, the basilica of Saint Maria Maggiore adjoined Tecla and the site served as a place of Christian worship until 1075 when fired gravely damaged the basilicas, leading to the call for erection of the Duomo 300 years later.
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| The octagonal Baptistery of San Giovanni, 4th.c.AD |
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| 4th century designs adorned the previous walls of the paleo-Christian basilicas |
Visiting the Duomo di Milano - What to Expect
The Duomo is open seven days a week although the Museum on the Royal Palace is closed on Wednesdays. Further information about hours and ticket prices can be found here.
I recommend purchasing the Duomo Pass, which grants access to all areas of the cathedral although I recommend ensuring the rooftop terrace ticket is granted for access to the stairs to avoid the long lines for the elevator.
Although the Duomo marks one of the most holy places in Christendom, it is also a tourist attraction so although visitors inside the cathedral are respectful, you will almost certainly encounter social media "influencers" posing before the Duomo's façade as well as peddlers selling their wares in the piazza. The Duomo is beautiful, but if you are seeking a serene experience, you will more likely find it in one of Milan's other historical basilicas which I will be posting about in the coming weeks.
The Duomo, with its incredible "marble carved into fine lace," wrought by over 600 years of European engineering and building, and in dedication to the glory of God through the Nativity of Mary is certainly a site worth visiting, wondering, and offering a prayer that it - and Christendom - may stand for at least 600 more.
